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Glossary of Apparel and Embroidery Terms



1x1 Rib:
The width of each rib is the same as the width between each rib. This helps the garment retain its elasticity.
2-Way Zipper:
A zipper with two zipper pulls so that it can be unzipped from either direction.
Anti-Pill:
A treatment applied to garments primarily to resist the formation of little balls on the fabric's surface due to abrasion during wear.
Argyle:
Typically a diamond pattern woven into a garment.
Back Pleats:
Tiny folds in the material on the back of a garment that allow for more room and comfort.
Back Yoke:
A piece of fabric that connects the back of a garment to the shoulders. This allows the garment to lay flat and drape nicely.
Basket Weave:
Knit process of weaving yarns back and forth resulting in a two-tone appearance.
Birdseye Jacquard:
A small geometric pattern with a center dot knit into the fabric.
Brushed Cotton:
Cotton fabric that is brushed to remove all the excess lint and fibers from the fabric, leaving an ultra soft, smooth finish.
Button-Through Sleeve Placket:
A small placket located on the sleeve, by the cuff, which contains a single button closure.
Collarette:
The trim around the neck of a t-shirt or sweatshirt.
Combed Cotton:
Cotton yarn that has been combed to remove short fibers and straighten or arrange longer fibers in a parallel order.
Cord Locks:
A stopper or toggle on a drawcord that keeps the cord from retracting into the garment.
Coverseamed:
A finish in which two needles are used to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It is used around the neck, arm holes, waistband, and wrists of garments to create a cleaner, more durable finish.
Denier:
A unit of fineness for rayon, nylon, and silk fibers. The higher the denier, the finer the fiber and the softer the product. For example, 100 denier fiber is very fine, whereas 50 denier fiber is not as fine but is very strong.
Double-Needle Stitched:
A finish used on a sleeve and/or bottom hem that uses two needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It gives the garment a cleaner, more finished look and adds durability.
Quick-Dry:
A high activity sportswear fabric that absorbs, wicks and dries faster than average golf-wear.
Dyed-To-Match:
Describes buttons or trims that are the same color as the garment onto which they are sewn.
Extended Tail:
When the back portion of the garment is longer than the front. Assists in keeping the garment tucked in during normal activity.
Eyelets:
Small holes or perforations made in a series to allow for breathability. Finished with either stitching or brass grommets.
Full Cut:
Refers to a garment's fit as being generous and roomy.
Garment Dyed:
A dyeing process that occurs after the garment is assembled.
Garment Washed:
A wash process where softeners are added to finished garments to help the cotton fibers relax or bloom. The result is a fabric with a thicker appearance, reduced shrinkage and a softer hand.
Herringbone:
A chevron or zig-zag pattern, knit into fabric.
High Profile:
A cap style with a high slope structured with buckram-a stiff fabric lining. Less fitted to the head.
Horn Tone Buttons:
Buttons that appear to be manufactured from horn.
Houndstooth:
A medium sized broken check effect that is knit into the fabric.
Interlock Knit:
A fabric that has two plys knit simultaneously to form one thicker and heavier ply. It has more natural stretch than a jersey knit, a soft hand, and the same appearance and feel on both sides.
Jacquard Knit:
A pattern knit directly into the fabric during the manufacturing process. Typically, 2 or more colors are used.
Jersey Knit:
This fabric has a flat, smooth texture on the front and back. Most t-shirts are made from Jersey Fabric, as are a majority of the most expensive Polos. This fabric can be very light weight and soft, or a little heavier with a nice drape. In general, Jersey is not great for very active wear as it tends to retain a lot of moisture (perspiration). Jersey Knit is particularly good for embroidery, as the flat texture provides very uniform and consistent background for applying logos. Jersey is the best show case for an embroidered logo!
Locker Loop:
A looped piece of fabric in the neck of a garment for the convenience of hanging the garment on a hook. Can also be located at the center of the back yoke on the inside or outside of a garment.
Locker Patch:
A semi-oval panel sewn into the inside back portion of a garment, just under the collar seam, to reinforce the garment and minimize stretching when hung on a hook. The patch also allows for the garment tag or label to be sewn below the neckline to help prevent irritation.
Low Profile:
A cap style with a low slope that is more closely fitted to the head. Can be either structured or unstructured.
Mercerized:
A product that has gone through a process to produce a smooth, lustrous hand.
Mesh:
See Pique Knit below.
Microfiber:
Fabric that is tightly woven from a very fine poly thread and has a sueded finish for a luxurious, soft feel. Microfiber fabric is naturally water repellent due to its construction process and when specially treated, can also be waterproof.
Nublend:
The combination of a knitting and spinning process developed by JERZEES for their blended fleece that helps prevent pilling.
Oxford:
A type of fabric where the fibers are either cotton or blended man-made fibers.
Patch Pocket:
A pocket attached to the outside of a garment.
Pearlized Buttons:
Buttons that have a pearl-colored hue.
Pewter and Horn Tone Buttons:
Buttons that incorporate pewter and horn tone, usually one encompasses the other.
Pigment Dyed:
A type of dye used to create a distressed or washed look.
Pique Knit:
Pronounced P-K, this is the fabric that is most associated with the original Lacoste Alligator Polo shirt. Also sometimes called mesh, pique is characterized by a textured fabric face with lots of tiny holes and a fabric back that is smooth. The construction is designed to pull moisture from the skin and wick it into the air, keeping the fabric, and the wearer, relatively dry and cool. Before the days of high tech and high performance Polyester yarns, Pique was the original performance fabric. In the 1920s pique fabrics were an innovation that was used in the first use-specific athletic wear, particularly in the original tennis and polo shirts, as athletes began to move away from participating in sports in long sleeve button down shirts that covered up all skin! The extraordinary comfort of this fabric soon popularized it for less serious athletes, and the rest, as they say, is history! Please note that due to the surface texture of pique, embroidery can sometimes be a bit of a challenge on this fabric, particularly small letters or details.
Placket:
The part of a shirt or jacket where the garment fastens together.
Plated:
Fabric produced from two yarns of different colors, characters or qualities. Used in knitted fabric with one kind of yarn on the face of the fabric and another on the back of the fabric.
Poly-fill:
A warm polyester lining found in the body or sleeves of outerwear garments. It has more loft than a regular nylon lining.
Poplin:
A tightly woven, durable, medium weight cotton or cotton blend fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave which creates a slight ridge effect.
PVC:
A polyurethane coating that is added to make garments water resistant.
Raglan Sleeves:
Sleeves set with a diagonal seam from the neck to the armpit.
Reverse Placket:
See Placket, but reversed for women's garment.
Rib Knit:
A textured knit that has the appearance of vertical lines. It is highly elastic and retains "memory".
Ring Spun Yarn:
Yarn made by continuously twisting and thinning a rope of cotton fibers. The twisting makes that short hairs of cotton stand out, resulting in a stronger yarn with a significantly softer hand.
Running Stitch:
A stitch that is spaced equally, with the underside stitching being half the length of the external side.
Self-fabric Collar:
A collar that is constructed from the same material as the body of the garment.
Self-fabric Sweatband:
Refers to headwear where the sweatband is constructed with the same fabric as the crown.
Side Vents:
Slits found at the bottom of side seams. They are fashion details that allow for comfort and ease of movement.
Slash Pockets:
A pocket that has to be entered through a slash on the outside of the garment. The pocket pouch is suspended from and attached to the slash.
Structured:
A cap style with a lined front consisting of buckram, a stiff fabric, that controls the slope of the cap.
Taslan:
Refers to how the fibers are woven and the resulting texture. Used mainly in outerwear garments, Taslan is a durable and water repellent nylon fabric with a slightly shiny surface.
Teklon:
A rugged, stronger Taslan nylon that is water repellent.
Terry Velour:
A type of material with uncut loops on both sides. It has a soft, plush feel and is water absorbent.
Tricot Lining:
A very lightweight nylon lining often used in shorts.
Triple-Needle Stitched:
See double-needle stitched but with three stitches.
Twill:
A fabric characterized by micro diagonal ribs producing a soft, smooth finish.
Twill Tape Placket Lining:
Twill tape is attached to the inside of the placket for a fashion effect.
Underarm Gussets:
Small holes in the armpit area to allow breathability and air circulation.
Unstructured:
A low profile cap style with a natural low sloping crown. No buckram has been added to the crown.
Vents, Front And Back:
Allow for breathability and may aid in ease of decoration, allowing the garment to be hooped and embroidered with no show-through on the inside of the garment. Some vents are tacked down and are for fashion purposes only.
Waffle Weave/Knit:
A waffle, or square pattern, knit or woven into a garment.
Welt Collar and/or Cuffs:
A single ply fabric with a finished edge that is used for collars and cuffs on sport shirts and short sleeve garments.
Wood Tone Buttons:
Buttons that simulate a wood appearance.

Further Questions

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